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After a week of debates and poor
weather, it was finally decided to send out one last exploration, to
circle the entire bay of Cape Cod, to see if there could be found any
better place. Corn Hill was a good, defensible spot, but the
Pilgrims were concerned about the availability of fresh water, the
highness of the hill with which they would need to haul water, and the
shallowness of the river mouth, which would only allow for small boats.
The men appointed to the third
and final exploration were Myles Standish, John Carver, William
Bradford, Edward Winslow, John Tilley, Edward Tilley, John Howland,
Richard Warren, Stephen Hopkins, Edward Doty, John Allerton, and Thomas
English. From the Mayflower's crew came John Clarke, Robert
Coppin, the master gunner, and three sailors.
Organizing everybody together
took nearly the whole day, but finally towards the late afternoon the
expedition got on its way. They immediately found themselves
struggling to make any headway against the freezing winds. One of
the men recorded "it was very cold, for the water froze on our clothes,
and made them many times like coats of iron." They sailed along
the coast looking for rivers and bays, until they came across what is
now Wellfleet Harbor. Evening was drawing near, so they made
landfall near modern-day Eastham. As they arrived, they saw a
number of Indians cleaning a large black fish on the shoreline.
When the Indians saw the Pilgrims coming in, they ran off. The sun
was quickly setting, so they gathered firewood, set out their guards,
and set up camp for the night. In the distance, they guessed about
five miles, they could see the smoke from the Indians' fires. And
no doubt the Indians could see the smoke of their fire too.
In the morning, the explorers
split up into two groups, one to explore the area by the shallop, and
the others to explore by land. They found it to be only a bay,
with no significant rivers of any kind. Those on the land followed
some Indian footprints along the sands, and then went into the woods
where they passed some ponds, some old cornfields, and another
graveyard. They then encountered about five abandoned Indian
houses that did not appear to have been lived in recently. As
night drew closer, they rejoined the men who were out in the shallop,
gathered firewood, fixed a small supper (they had eaten nothing all
day), and made their barricade for the night.
About midnight, one of the
sentinels, or watchmen, woke everyone up, "Arm! Arm!" Everyone
awoke to hear "a great and hideous
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First Encounter Beach. |
cry". They shot off
their muskets a few times into the air, and the noise stopped.
They all wondered what it could be? Some of the Mayflower's
sailors said they had heard such noises in Newfoundland, and that they
were from wolves or foxes. At about five in the morning, they
began to wake up and prepare their breakfast and pack for the day's
voyage onward, when all of a sudden "we heard a great and strange cry,
which we knew to be the same voices," and one of the men came running
back to camp yelling "They are men, Indians! Indians!" and immediately
thereafter "their arrows came flying amongst us". Several of the
Pilgrims fired their muskets into the darkness. One of the Indians
was standing behind a nearby tree, and the Pilgrims shot at him three
times before he finally took off and yelled for the others to follow.
It was over almost as quickly as it began. Arrows and gunshots
were exchanged. Yet surprisingly nobody on either side was
injured. The Pilgrims nicknamed the place "The First Encounter".
The Pilgrims left shortly after
the skirmish, continuing on around the Cape, looking for any kind of
decent river or harbor around which they could locate their little
colony. After about two hours, it began to snow and rain, and the
seas began to get very rough. The rudder hinges then broke, so
they had to steer the shallop with oars. As night approached, they
finally saw Plymouth Harbor, and struggled against the wind and seas to
get the little shallop headed in the right direction. Just as they
were about to get in, a stiff wind picked up, and broke their mast into
three pieces. Luckily, the tide was with them, and they were able
to slip into the harbor by oars and paddling alone. The sun had
set, and darkness was quickly falling, so they beached themselves on a
sandy island, which they named Clark's Island, in honor of John Clark,
the Mayflower's Mate who miraculously piloted the beaten and
battered shallop into the island before night had totally fallen upon
them.
Saturday morning, December 10,
they tired and beaten men explored the island, thinking it might be a
good place to build their town; and in the meantime some of them patched
up their shallop. The next day, Sunday, they honored the Sabbath
and did not work; so they stayed on the island all day Sunday as well.
On Monday, with calmer weather,
they explored the harbor, and they liked what they saw. The harbor
was big and deep enough for ships to anchor safely. And there were
small brooks, nice hills, and cleared land. They returned to the
Mayflower, still anchored off the tip of Cape Cod, and brought
everyone the good news: they found a good place to build their
plantation!

Map of the
Pilgrim's exploration, December 6-12, 1620 |